“Graetzel” is the name given to small parts of Vienna by locals. But what is so special about them? They have no official borders, but are unique places with their own appeal, which bubble with the notorious Viennese attitude to life. Today, we’re taking you on a tour of the neighbourhood surrounding our Hotel Schani Wien at the Central Station, where our journey begins.
Vienna’s Main Station: arriving and sticking around
It is the hub for businesses travellers, globetrotters, and everybody in between. The former Südbahnhof (South Railway Station) has become Austria’s busiest railway station since its modernisation in 2014. However, some old relics have remained, among them the well-known Markuslöwe (Lion of St. Mark), which has been keeping a watchful eye over the station for 140 years.
Belvedere: about the palace that is actually two palaces
It is not quite correct to speak about the Belvedere palace in the singular. However, we Viennese still do it. In reality, the Belvedere is two palaces. The Upper Belvedere is connected to the Lower Belvedere via a baroque garden that pays homage to the Italian meaning of the word “belvedere” (a beautiful view).
Upper Belvedere: Klimt’s Kiss
Alone together? Not really! Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” is the most popular painting by the Austrian artist and, thus, the highlight of the art collection in the Upper Belvedere. Additionally, many more masterpieces by painters such as Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh and Egon Schiele attract large numbers of visitors. By the way, the baroque palace was already well frequented during the lifetime of Prince Eugene of Savoy – as a venue for grand festivities.
Lower Belvedere: a splurging prince
It is quite clear that Prince Eugene must have been one of the wealthiest and most influential nobles of his time, a fact that is visible during a visit to his summer residence. Well, a true prince needs a fully marbled hall, a golden cabinet with mirrors on every wall and his own orangery. Nowadays, special exhibitions are organised in the Lower Belvedere on a regular basis.
Belvedere 21: a portable pavilion
All good things come in threes, don’t they? Admittedly, Belvedere 21 looks somewhat different to the two baroque palaces. Originally, the pavilion was created for the 1958 World Exhibition in Brussels. It’s a good job it was so easy to disassemble and reassemble – so that it finally landed back here in Vienna. Its bright, glass rooms present its Austrian contemporary art in the right light.
Botanical Garden: locals and exotics
In 1754, the Botanical Garden helped medical students to get hands-on botanical training as the “Hortus Medicus.” However, animals also feel at home here and can be seen close-up, in addition to plants from all over the planet.
Arsenal and HGM: Bordeaux-red brick buildings
The charm of old, redbrick buildings is captivating for many people. A whooping 31 such buildings, among them the Museum of Military History (HGM), can be found at the nearby Arsenal, a former military complex. The historical complex takes you through 400 years of Central European military history, under the motto “Wars belong in a museum.” Soon, you will also be able to admire temporary exhibitions on contemporary photography at the Arsenal.
Now, which spot will you visit first?
Of course, we cannot let you go on your Graetzeltour without a small serving of Viennese-to-go.
= walking without lifting your feet, to shuffle
Fotos: © WienTourismus/Evelyn Dragan; WienTourismus/Gregor Hofbauer; WienTourismus/Julius Hirtzberger; WienTourismus/Paul Bauer